Shigar, the Heart of Baltistan

From Khaplu, we drove about three hours to Shigar, encountering scenic views, more impressive suspension bridges, laboring roadwork, and terraced villages.

We settled into another historic fort-palace, converted into a lovely boutique hotel, built in the 17th century. The rooms at the Serena Shigar Fort were especially unique, all resembling their original layouts. My room felt like a cubbyhole only fit for a gnome. I ended up with such a cozy room, when I noticed my 6’2″ tall travel companion bending over uncomfortably, simply to enter the room he was assigned… We immediately traded rooms, as my smaller 5’0″ tall frame was much more fitting.

Shigar is inhabited almost exclusively by the Balti people of Tibetan descent. It’s said Baltistan was controlled by the Tibetan king in 686, and being culturally influenced by Tibet, the Baltis began to adopt Tibetan Buddhism. During the 14th century, Muslim scholars from Kashmir crossed Baltistan’s mountainous terrain to spread Islam. Eventually Islam became dominant by the end of the 17th century. Mosques in Baltistan are mainly built in the Tibetan style, and several mosques have wood-finish and decorations of Mughal origin, which can also be seen in Ladakh.

We walked to nearby historical mosques and were treated to solid history lessons from our guide. Khilingrong Mosque was constructed in the earlier years of 17th century, making the structure more than 400 years old. The mosque is topped off with a Tibetan Tower, showcasing apparent Buddhist influence.

The 14th century Amburiq Mosque represents the first Islamic religious monument in the Shigar Valley, and is one of the region’s oldest historically and socially significant structures. Constructed of local stone and mud, the mosque is an excellent example of combined Tibetan and Kashmiri architecture.

We continued our walk back to the hotel, and caught the end of a local polo match. Our guide got chummy with some locals, swapping hats and sharing laughs, even though neither side understood a word being spoken. It’s always amazing how easily we can all communicate with actions, smiles, and general charm.

Early the next morning, a few of us hiked up a steep mountainside that bordered the town, enticed by ancient rock inscriptions. The hike was treacherous, following no real trail and on precarious scree. Nerves were heightened when it became obvious our guide wasn’t exactly sure where the inscriptions were located, seeming unsure about direction. While we searched, the sun was rising, giving spanning views of the valley below. Finally, finding the drawings gave storied insight into ancient tales, making the journey feel worthwhile. Breakfast felt earned after making it down the hill safely.

We later drove into Shigar Valley to explore. By chance, we came across an elementary school that invited us in to meet the young students. We didn’t want to interrupt their studies, but it became clear our presence was extremely interesting and exciting to the children. We were mutually thrilled! Another special experience we’ll never forget.

We said our goodbyes to the bright-eyed students, and carried on further into the picturesque valley to pick some mulberries. Our caravan of vehicles pulled over at a small trailhead used for cattle. We walked the trail in search of ripe mulberries, and instead met farmers and school children, all very curious as to why these foreigners were also wandering the field! We tried our best to ask about their day, but the language barrier was strong. In the meantime, our guides climbed the mulberry trees and tried their best at picking what they could. We tried our best at eating such tart mulberries! A great way to spend an afternoon, nonetheless.

When back in town, we strolled the local shops, and eventually came upon the main mosque. The colorful rugs laid out for prayer were so vibrant and inviting, and the detailed woodwork elaborated how cherished the sacred space is.